I want to start with clams with garlic butter and parsley, with some crusty bread. Then I should like a whole roasted turbot, with samphire. And chips.

A bottle of Gavi di Gavi and, with dessert (mousse au chocolat, natch), some of that red Italian dessert wine we had at my wedding.

I suppose I could do all that at home.

Wait, I’m off to source a turbot.