So it turns out that eating raw fish might not have been such a good idea after all

[Sir C]

Well, no. But - and here's the key thing for me - would that delicate flavour not be better served by being lightly fried and served with a beurre noisette? In other words, is raw fish as good as cooked fish? For me, the answer is no.

That depends entirely on the fish. A plump Dover Sole? Get in the pan. A rigor mortis-fresh seabass? Sounds like ceviche material to me. A fatty lump of tuna? Sashimi, sashimi, sashimi.